By Gillian Mitchell
The Toyota Stellenbosch Woordfees takes place this year from 28 September to 6 October. Get your tickets at Quicket. Undoubtedly a predominantly Afrikaans language festival, it is nonetheless an opportunity that English speakers should not let slip by. Irrespective of whether your Afrikaans is fluent, a little rickety, mostly made up of “Ja-nee” and “lekker” or completely non-existent you will find a myriad of things to do, see and experience at the Woordfees. You don’t need a phrase book or an interpreter. Just come along and join in a celebration of art, performance, music, food and enjoy a day or more of old-fashioned hospitality and “geselligheid*” (*sociability – but much more fun). You won’t be sorry.
This year the theme of the festival is “play”. Consider Stellenbosch your playground for 10 days starting September 28th. Get in touch with your inner child at the toy exhibition and the fun spaces of Zine-fees and Open Mic: Woord-Kans. Watch artists at play in their studios as more than 15 artists open their studios for visits and insights into their creative processes and spaces. Play with your food in the town that is fast becoming the culinary capital of the country with restaurants for every pocket, taste and adventurous spirit. Stellenbosch is also Barista central. Whatever your order, be it a medium black and bitter or a large mocha-caramel-oat-decaf-marula-latte, Stellenbosch abounds with smiling baristas who work magic with roasted beans. And then there are the wines…if you are over 18, of course.
October is springtime in the Boland. After a grey, miserable, wet winter, there is nothing more mood uplifting than spending a day or two in Stellenbosch. The oak trees are covered in neon green new leaf shoots, the azaleas are in full bloom, and the sky is (mostly) a clear cerulean blue bathing everything in the brightness of the promise of summer. Stroll down the charming streets, hang out at a curbside coffee shop, order a glass of bubbly at a wine bar, eat at one, or two, or five of the many eclectic restaurants. People watch – and because it is festival time, you will see a few famous faces from stage and television walking through town or meeting up with friends.
You are going to need more than one day!
Spoil yourself and stay over at one of the many welcoming bed-and-breakfast establishments and hotels in Stellenbosch.
Reasons to visit the Toyota Stellenbosch Woordfees this October
1. Visual Art at the Toyota Stellenbosch Woordfees
Art doesn’t require words. You won’t need a word of Afrikaans to visit the many galleries and exhibitions that are open to the public during the festival – most of them free.
Visit the Stellenbosch University Museum in Ryneveld Street and see the extraordinary work of festival artist, Marlene Steyn. Born in Stellenbosch and exhibited all over the world, Marlene uses colour and fantasy to create landscapes that are dreamy, authentic and recognizable.
Stroll across to the Town Hall in Plein Street and be enthralled by the variety and exquisite artistry of the works that during the festival will go on auction to buyers from around the world. Curated by Teresa Lizamore under the banner of Strauss and Co, this exhibition is an opportunity to see the work of artists from across South Africa and to dip your toes into the rewarding world of art collecting.
The Stellenbosch Triennale Exhibition (Un)Earthed explores ceramics to draw out clues about the representation of our collective South African identities, past and present. Works are on display at the Voorgelegen Museum in Drop Street. The Stellenbosch Triennale aims to make Stellenbosch a destination for multi-disciplinary art in Africa by turning the town into a curated public exhibition that responds to society’s continual interrogation of the kind of people we want to be. Visit stellenboschtriennale.com/exhibitions/unearthed for more information.
If you are not quite sure what you should be seeing or feeling when you look at art, take one of the guided tours on offer. Tour the Dylan Lewis Sculpture Garden – one of the world’s most magnificent exhibitions of art in nature; be guided around the Rupert Museum by curator Eliz-Marie Schoonbee; learn about art and collecting from Strauss & Co’s Frank Kilbourn as he takes you through works from the company flagship auctions.
Listen to one of the many lectures by Strauss & Co enthusiasts that will give you insights into the different aspects of visual art. Talks on art and fashion, the workings of an auction house, impressions of the 2024 Vienna Biennale and so much more will leave you feeling as though you have encountered a whole new world.
Have you always wanted to know how artists work? This year you can visit more than 15 artists in their studios, and talk to them about their work, the way they create and see firsthand the spaces in which they bring their visions to life.
Take a short drive and visit the Blaauwklippen Wine Estate and tour the exhibition Beyond the page which looks at the synergy of art and literature, and the Woordfees Atelier, an exhibition of works by all of the artists participating in the studio visits programme. Don’t forget to taste some wines while you are there.
And as the sun sets take in Picasso, Pinotage and Piano, a sunset celebration of art, music and wine. And if you are staying late, wander over to Petites Bulles, the gorgeous champagne and music bar, for late night jazzy vibes where great South African talent, both new and legendary, can be experienced for free.
2. Classical Music programme
World class musicians, singers and conductors bring the drama, sensitivity and timeless passion of classical music to the Woordfees. Come and listen to favourites such as Bach, Mozart, Mendelssohn, Prokofiev, Grieg, Ravel, Brahms, Gershwin, Piazzola, Vivaldi, Huyssen, Chopin, Haydn, Handel and so many more and take a chance on something that you have not heard before. There are over 35 classical music productions, most of which are performed in the acoustically exceptional Endler concert venue and Fismer Hall.
A very special series of pastorales will be played every day from Monday to Friday at 13H15 on the glorious organ in the Moederkerk – the second oldest congregation in South Africa which has served the community since 1686. Five exceptional organists, led by Zorada Temmingh bring melodies and harmonies that will transport you to a place that is peaceful, serene, tranquil and evocative of the beauty of nature and an idyllic vision of pastoral life. This serene respite from the bustling world is enhanced by the soaring beauty of the Moederkerk. There is also the opportunity to join Zorada Temmingh and learn about the history and meaning behind the exquisite stained-glass windows of this historic church.
If you have never experienced a Charl du Plessis concert – an exceptional musical gift awaits you. If you have – you probably already have your tickets. Along with Werner Spies (bass) and Peter Auret (drums) the Charles du Plessis Trio’s Rhapsody in Blue promises to be a premier Woordfees event and tickets sell out really fast. The music, the stories, the musicians and best of all the joyful enthusiasm and appreciation of the audience at these concerts make them a once in a lifetime experience that will remain with you for days. Expect to add Charl du Plessis and Gershwin to your Spotify playlist in a “japtrap*”. (*really fast)
Should your taste veer toward the more modern classics, there is much to tempt your senses. The Charl du Plessis Trio will perform Rhapsody in Blue and other Gershwin delights. Bejazzle is piano virtuoso Nina Schumann’s dip into the waters of jazz and shows that classical music and jazz make excellent bedfellows. American Rhythms take audiences on a musical expedition that evokes the wide open spaces of the American landscape and the American pioneer spirit, with works such as Aaron Copland’s Appalachian Spring. The excitement of Klavier-extravaganza (Piano Extravaganza) featuring 10 pianos, 20 pianists and 200 fingers, turns Endler Hall into a playground of virtuosity, melody and a whole lot of fun.
Are you one of those people who would love to try classical music but can’t imagine sitting still in a concert hall for a long time? The Woordfees Sonic Place 20:24 is the perfect solution to your dilemma. Your ticket buys you a place at two short concerts of 24 minutes each held at the homes of Stellenbosch residents, a glass of wine and a very short walk between venues. Jazz, classical, free improvisation and acoustic experimentation are all to be found in these six performances and you will have the opportunity to talk to some of the musicians.
The string is the thing. Several presentations on the Woordfees Classical Music programme revere the beauty of string instruments. The beguiling tones of stringed instruments have the power to tug at the heartstring of audiences. The violin, viola, and cello each possess a distinctive voice, yet together they resonate with a beauty that is mesmerising.
Strings Attached will give you the chance to listen to Vivaldi’s Concert for two cellos in G-minor and Mendelssohn’s Octet in E-flat major, Opus 20 performed by the cream of South African musicians under the musical direction of Peter Martens. Stryk-en KlarinetPalet (Strings and Clarinet) brings together eight brilliant musicians who play Mozart, Prokofiev, Piazzolo and many more with exuberance and joyful energy. At the Woordfees for the first time The Wits Trio will delight audiences with their exciting rendition of works by Mozart, Brahms and Babajanian.
Voices in Harmony. Choral music has a considerable following in South Africa and there are no fewer than six presentations on the Classical Music programme that feature choirs. The world’s No.1 Amateur Choir and beloved by all who hear them, The Stellenbosch University Choir delivers 6 performances under the baton of Andre van der Merwe. This award-winning choir will perform new arrangements of songs such as The Crossing (Johnny Clegg), and Blou (Andre Swiegers). Voces Cordis the 80 voices led by Andre van der Merwe bring a varied programme that delivers exceptional arrangements from Renaissance favourites to hymns such as Ave Maria, and even a Freddie Mercury classic, Seaside Rendezvous. ’n Kaapse Fantasie features students from The Cape Choral Academy. The Cape Town Chamber Choir will present a programme of sacred songs for only one performance. Schola Cantorum – the Stellenbosch University Chamber Choir – are part of the prestigious group of musicians who have been assembled to perform Haydn’s oratorium Die Schöpfung (The Creation). The Cape Town Opera Chorus, who have won the title of best opera choir in the world, will perform Horizons, a collection of works that reflect their versatility and musicality.
3. EasyEquities Writers’ Festival
The Woordfees started out as a festival for the spoken word and 24 years later words remain at the heart of the programme through the Writers’ Festival where you can listen to talks on fiction, non-fiction, politics, spirituality, biography, memoire and so much more. Exclusive Books have a fully stocked facility in the Book Tent where you can buy books in all languages every day for the nine days of the festival.
For those who have some Afrikaans there are a variety of talks about books that cover everything from politics to travel, from memoire to fiction, from poetry to autobiography and a few more things in-between that are conducted in both English and Afrikaans. Be sure to grab a copy of the festival guide, absolutely free at most Exclusive Book Stores, so that you can plan your visit. The full festival programme is also available as a downloadable pdf – in both English and Afrikaans – on Woordfees.co.za.
For English-speakers there are 7 discussions that will take place entirely in English:
South Africa’s Soul in the Time of Super Cadres: Waldimar Pelser talks to authors Pieter du Toit and Oyama Mabandla about the state of South Africa’s political soul (political non-fiction).
A Tale of Two Cities: Anna Stroud and Nick Clelland talk to Jaco Adriaanse about their visions of the future based on their depictions of society and the city in their new books (fiction).
God’s Pocket: Sven Axelrad talks about his book, God’s Pocket, that is a celebration of the joys of youth, about the eccentricities of his narrative world and the role that his yorkie Zoë plays in his life as writer and accountant (magical realism).
Queer and Quotable: Alistair Mackay and Siya Khumalo are bright new lights in the publishing world of queer literature. They share their thoughts on the state of South African queer literature (fiction).
Bullsh!t: 50 Fibs that made SA: Jonathan Ancer’s book has a dazzling array of lies, myths, untruths and made up stories that tell the story of our country’s history. With his tongue firmly in his cheek and a commitment to make fun of everyone, Jonathan tries to make sense of fact and fiction (non-fiction).
How to (Un)F*ck a Country: How do we get our country out of the mess post State Capture? Dr Roy Havemann has a six-point plan (politics).
Ryan Sandes: Run. Risk. Reward: Legendary South African ultra-trail runner Ryan Sandes talks about his breathtaking adventures and the accidents, fears and triumphs that go with being the first competitor to have won all four of the world’s most extreme races – The 4 Desert Races which are run through The Atacama in Chile, The Gobi in China, The Sahara in Egypt and Antarctica (sport/adventure).
4. Laugh out Loud. Stand-Up at the Woordfees.
We each have our own peculiar sense of humour and different cultures have unique aspects to the humour that their members enjoy. Three of South Africa’s top comedians bring two shows to the Woordfees that crisscross many cultures (and a few of our 11 official languages) to bring you humour that is ultimately proudly South African.
Nik Rabinowitz brings his inimitable sense of humour and hilarious observations about South Africans and the world to the Woordfees – in English. A self-confessed goat whisperer, Nik is guaranteed to make you see the absurdity of living in these times in our great nation.
Alfred Adriaan and Marc Lottering team up for two hours of hilarity, madness and a fair bit of nonsense. Mostly in English but with some Afrikaans, this combination promises stand-up that is funny, energising and really smart.
5. Things to ponder: The Woordfees Discussion Programme
The popular and thought provoking Discussion programme tackles issues that affect all South Africans. Whether you want to know more about politics, science, finance and investing, theatre makers, or what concerns students right now, there is a probing discussion with experts that you can attend. Some are solely in Afrikaans, but many are bilingual and for those with limited Afrikaans there are several discussions conducted in English.
Science made easy. Members of the SU Faculty of Natural Sciences present the highly popular Science Café every year to loyal and enthusiastic followers. Interesting scientific issues of the day are presented in easy to understand language and encourage input and comment from the audiences. Two of the three presentations are in English and the third one is bilingual for those who have some Afrikaans. This is truly science for fun!
When (and not if) the next pandemic hits us (English)
International experts join SU faculty to talk about the forecasts of another pandemic.
Grieving for Nature (English)
Ecological grief, or more particular, climate grief is the sense of loss that people feel on experiencing or finding out about environmental destruction. Humanity at this stage is experiencing extensive environmental loss. How do we cope with the sense of loss as environmental devastation continues?
Get to know your mushrooms (English and Afrikaans)
Scientists depend on citizens to help document the thousands of elements that make up our biodiverse environments. In Africa it is thought that there are hundreds of species of mushrooms still to be “discovered” and catalogued. Come and listen to experts who show you how everyone can help.
The Discussion series has a little something for everyone. English speakers can listen to Mohhadiah Rafique talk about hip-hop as a commentary and interrogation of the society that surrounds it. In From Here to Nowhere, Lauren Grootboom talks about the history of Forced removals in South Africa with a group of speakers who will share their stories, observations and personal experiences and the intergenerational effect of forced removals on people and families. We know that our histories and stories are inextricably wrapped up in the food that we prepare and serve. Dr Amy Rommelspacher discusses the art works created by a group of students in response to their experiences with history and food through their interaction with NG Church archival material.
Our students are our future. Do we know their concerns? Do we understand how their experiences are shaping the future of our world? Come and spend some time with our young people as they talk about their view of our world. How does the conflict in Gaza affect students on the Stellenbosch University Campus and what is the role of higher education in supporting the discussion and the repercussions. Is there still room for playfulness in adulthood, or do we expect our young people to grow up too quickly? Does student life as a particular experience exist at Stellenbosch University? How do the diverse experiences of so many different students, social dynamics, campus culture and even technology influence the student experience?
These discussions are held in English and Afrikaans and free.
Have you ever wondered just what goes into the making of a theatre production? In this year’s Theatre Talks, Saartjie Botha talks to Lara Foot and the cast of the award-winning Othello about staging one of Shakespeare’s most well-known, but also contentious plays and the ways in which time and context influence interpretation. Saartjie also talks to Neil Coppen and Mpume Mthombeni about the Naledi award-winning production Isidlamlilo/The Fire Eater and the challenges and creativity involved in bringing to the stage a work that is grounded in political reality and personal experience and interrogates the role of a violent past in creating a violent democracy. Greq Maqoma, one of South Africa’s foremost dancers, choreographers and thought leaders, retires from performing after his two performances of Exit/Exist at Woordfees. Gillian Mitchell talks to this legendary South African performer about his work, his love of all things dance, and his vision of the future. Talks are an hour long and free.
6. Toyota Music Festival
The Toyota Music Festival brings the best of contemporary South African music to Stellenbosch. You don’t need a single word to get into the groove of the magical jazz performances at Petites Bulles, the Daisy Jones Bar and at the SU Conservatory Amphitheatre. Ramon Alexander, Schalk Joubert, Alwyn Dyers, Melisize Plaatjie and many more. Late night, evening, and jam sessions in which you are invited to bring along your instrument and play with some of our legendary jazz performers awaits you. You will need more than one night, book a few days.
If you are from Cape Town and your heart beats in overdrive when you hear anyone mention The Galaxy, Manenberg’s, the 5 to 4 or Westridge City then you also need no introduction to Leslie Kleinsmith. Leslie will be at the Drostdy Theatre performing Kaapse Kabaret and enthralling everyone with his smooth style and velvet voice. Along with Ramon Alexander he won the Woordtrofees Award for their production at the 2023 festival. Get your tickets now, because as soon as the rest of Cape Town hears that Leslie is performing – not a seat will be open in the house.
As important as lyrics are in music, there is something about an open air concert that transcends words – come for the music, the vibe, the atmosphere, the “geselligheid”* (sociability – but much more fun). Five open-air concerts are set to rock Stellenbosch during the festival. Take a chance and experience the “gees”* (rollicking spirit) provided by Ricus Nel, Neon Dreams, Blackbyrd & Elandre, Matthew Mole and Emo Adams and Dr. Victor and the Rasta Rebels. Call some friends, throw on comfortable clothes, pack a blanket and forget about all your cars as you join hundreds of festival-goers in the beautiful Jan Marais Nature Reserve for one, or five, of these open-air concerts. Let the music do the talking. Food and beverages will be available at stalls in the grounds.
Virtuoso pianist Winand Grundling pays tribute to the celebrated pianist and comedian Victor Borge in a programme of improvisation and comedy that will have you smiling and foot tapping in no time at all. Come a little earlier, or linger a little after, and have a drink or snack at the lovely bar and patio area at the Drostdy Theatre.
The Radio Kalahari Orkes (RKO) is made up of violin, old guitars, kwela flutes, harmonicas, drums and just about any other instrument these madcap musicians find on the way. Expect rhythms and music that echo ghoema, Latin-America, and African music from across the continent, and a whole lot of stuff that have crossed their paths. Quiet and conservation the RKO are not! They have been playing together since 2005 and their music transports you straight to the Karoo, around an open fire, “boeretroos” (“coffee brewed on an open fire”) in hand and the wide expanse of a starry South African sky. Yes, some of the lyrics are in Afrikaans, but you really won’t notice as you stomp your feet to the wildly joyful music of this unique South African band.
Film scores have a special beauty and grandeur that moves us almost unconsciously while we are watching the big screen. Two Stellenbosch Woordfees productions feature film scores: Mosaic: a journey through space and time weaves together classical music jazz and film music to bring you a masterful sensory musical experience that fuses many genres and cultures.
Silwerskerm-musiektreffers (Silver screen music hits) features the cream of South African singers and musicians in a production that pays tribute to some of the most iconic film scores of the silver screen. Music from movies such as Lord of the Rings, Titanic, Moulin Rouge, Harry Potter and many more are brought to vibrant life under the musical direction of Elna van der Merwe.
Stellenbosch – hold onto your hats. Mandisi Dyantyis is in the house! This exceptional afro-soul-jazz musician with more accolades under his belt than we have space for, will be performing for one night only at the Daisy Jones Bar. He has been hailed as one of the world’s great trumpeters and singers who performs his deeply emotional sounds and lyrics in a way that reaches to your very soul. He has performed with international stars all over the world and no-one should miss the opportunity to experience this outstanding South African musician in performance.
7. The play is the thing: Theatre at the Toyota Stellenbosch Woordfees
Othello, the internationally awarded South African production starring Atandwa Kani, Albert Pretorius, Faniswa Yisa and many more stellar South African performers comes to the Woordfees for five performances in the Adam Small Auditorium. Reset in Namibia at the time of the Herero Uprising under Dutch colonisation, this thought-provoking rendition of one of Shakespeare’s more controversial plays has elicited standing ovations and much public debate. It is a theatrical experience that will leave you with much to think and talk about for a long time after you leave the theatre.
Sue Pam-Grant, writer, actress and visual artist, brings the production that won her a Fleur du Cap Award to Woordfees. Why do moths fly like crazy kcufs in the night? Is inspired by the world and life of Louise Bourgeois, one of the most fascinating and production visual artists of the 20th Century. This production is part performance, part theatre, part art installation, a creative tour de force directed by Fred Abrahamse.
The King of Broken Things: Whether you are five or one hundred and five this utterly charming and compelling performance will make your day. Cara Roberts creates the richly imagined world of a young boy, about 10 years old, who finds joy and meaning in the things that surround him when his life is messed up through bullying and abandonment. Richly conceived and achingly beautifully rendered this production is an ode to the value of the broken and the beauty that can be found in imperfection. Everyone will find something that deeply touches and honours those places where we often lock up our senses of loss and belonging and shows us the exquisite beauty that can be found in broken things. This production is conceived as theatre for children – but is in fact for everyone.